New Zealand How I Love Thee, Let Me Count the Ways

So, what's there to say about New Zealand? Well, it's absolutely gorgeous first off, but you probably knew that already. It's true through - even a bus ride between towns feels like a tour through the vibrant, lush countryside. The terrain seems an even mix of flat, fertile lowlands and towering mountains, but that's what gives this country much of its beauty - contrast. Apparently this is even more evident in the southern half of the south island, but that remains to be seen.

Besides being beautiful, New Zealand's also just a pleasant place to be. The people here are so laid back and friendly, and I've met many more Kiwis in a week than I met Aussies in my whole time in Australia. There also seems to be a healthy relationship with the native Maori people, despite the rocky history; each side seems to hold a true mutual respect for the native culture and people which is great.

The South Island itself seems to be mostly composed of medium sized towns fueled by tourism and sheep. The towns are sprinkled among the natural scenery and countless sheep farms - sheep outnumber people a solid 10 to 1, which is even down since the government stopped subsidizing the farmers. Even Christchurch, the main city on the South Island and the jumping off point for my journey, just feels like a big town surrounded by the country. The central business district is dominated by a a church square, a few art galleries and the botanical gardens. There are a couple tall buildings (mostly hotels) and then the rest of the city spreads out with three story buildings with a mix of residential and commercial spaces. Apart from that, there's a small University, a gondola up a nearby mountain and a small but rather well run Museum. And that's about it...

A View of Christchurch


Atop Mt. Cavendish near Christchurch


Punting the Avalon in Central Christchurch

From Christchurch I took a stunning bus ride northwest through the Lewis pass and up to Montueka near the Abel Tasman National Park on the north edge of the island. Montueka, typically, is just a main street lined with cafes, shops and a few hotels, all surrounded by apple orchards, vineyards and, yes, sheep farms. I stayed in Montueka one night and departed early for the park; taking a shuttle bus followed by a water taxi up to Totaranui on the north tip of the park. For the next nine hours I hiked along the coast as it wound in and out of the Tasman sea. The coastal track rises through dense bush over headlands to scenic overlooks, then falls again and spits you out on a barren beach to walk for a while. Over the course of the nine hours I saw a slew of birds (cormorants, fantails, seagulls, etc.) took a couple swims and had a nice nap in the sand. The trail also entailed a tidal estuary crossing which I had to do a bit early and resulted in me hoisting my pack onto one shoulder as the cold water came chest high, my bare feet crunched on sharp sea shells as a stingray did a couple laps around me - it was eventful to say the least.

Approaching the Lewis Pass


View Down the Abel Tasman Coast


Abel Tasman Estuary


Resting on the Beach

As the sun got low I met two girls from Seattle on a barren beach and we hiked the last hour together to the hut, the much needed company helping the time fly and my sore muscles push on after hours of hiking alone. We got into the hut just at dusk and after polishing off my hummus and Camembert, I curled up in my sleeping bag with my 16 new roommates for much needed rest.

I woke early the next morning and after visiting a nearby waterfall and estuary, I went out to the bark bay beach as instructed. There I quickly found the double red kayak and my guide for the day Robyn. Luckily, two others hadn't shown so it was just the two of us for the morning. After a quick briefing I was in the front of the kayak paddling out to sea. We visited a nearby estuary (necessitating a frantic ten minutes of paddling to escape the incoming tide) and then headed out to nearby islands where seals swam around the boat as their family members lounged about on the nearby rocks. In the afternoon we met three more people and I got a new partner as Robyn switched to a single kayak. Unfortunately the 3 were rather dull and so the afternoon was rather uneventful compared to the great morning paddle. We passed through some more outer islands and back to Marahua were I'd set out the morning before. All together, the hike and paddle was such a great way to see the park with different views from the land and sea. It also helped that the weather was essentially perfect.

That night the shuttle brought me further down the road to Nelson, a stunning small town known for its artisans. After a long hot shower and a quick befriending of my new Canadian roommate, I was off to the pub for a much needed dose of cold beer and hot food. The local beer tasted terrific (my first since coming down sick in Melbourne) and the hot food was wonderful after two days in the park. I stayed out late that night, enjoying my new companions, some live music and a few too many pints, but I also ended up meeting my first fellow New Hampshire native which was a treat this far from home.

The next morning I went to the Nelson market which I do believe is the best weekend market I've ever been to (sorry Ithaca). It was quite large and filled with local farmers selling produce, cheese, sausage, wool clothing, as well as food stalls, coffee stalls, and great crafts from the local artisans. I even helped my self to some Thai Tom Yum Curry for breakfast and practised my Thai (consisting of "hello" and "thank you") with the owner. Delicious. After my hopes of filling the afternoon with a rock climbing adventure had vanished, I made plans for a swift exit from Nelson, climbed the nearby hill purporting to be the "center of New Zealand" and then caught my bus. The bus ride was another stunning two hour ride, this time along the north coast, and soon after arriving in Picton I had boarded a huge ferry which took us through the Marlborough sounds at twilight and across the treacherous Cook straight to the North Island and the capital of New Zealand, Wellington.

View over Nelson


The Center of It All (Well New Zealand Anyway)


Nelson Doorstop


Picton Dock House

My two days in Wellington have been great. The surrounding mountains and bay make Wellington a very compact city so I was able to explore all by foot which is a major plus in my book. A highlight has been the huge museum called "Te Papa" (Our Place in Maori) which covers natural history, art, Maori culture and the geology of New Zealand. I also took the famous Tram to the hills above the city and visited the surprisingly interesting museum dedicated to the tram's operation. The trip down was a wondering voyage through the splendid botanical gardens and back to the city. The next morning I took a tour of Parliament and the famous (and ugly) "beehive" executive building. I must admit, this was interesting but the content of the tour was mostly Greek to me since I know nothing of parliamentary governments or rugby and cricket rivalries (which the tour guide was oft making allusions to), but the Brits, Irish, Kiwis and Aussies that shared the tour with me seemed quite enthralled. I was pleased to meet an Aussie on the tour from Walpole in Western Australia but, even after I explained the connection (myself being from Walpole, NH) he didn't seem as interested as I was. Tomorrow I head back to Picton by ferry and then Christchurch by train. My tour of the north south island and Wellington complete, I'll now move onto the south south island with many more natural beauties and adventures in store.

Wellington Boat Houses


Wellington Tramway


The Center of New Zealand Power - Parliament and the "Beehive"

Also, as you've probably noticed by the number of pictures, my fervor for picture taking as returned with a vengeance so I've posted many more on my Flickr Site. Enjoy!

Australia Wrap Up

So, I'm on the mend, had some great homecooked Indian food last night at a friend of Laurent's in Sydney and am now waiting for my flight this evening to New Zealand. My friends Ben and Kerryn (whom I met in Laos) were instrumental in my recovery. The other key element of my recovery were 20 little yellow and brown pills labeled "Amoxycillin Trihydrate". I don't care what anyone else says, Antibiotics are a beautiful thing. Officially I had come down with a "upper respiratory tract infection" and after a week of sickness, recovery has been slow and so I'm still not at 100%.

My Lovely Hosts - Kerryn and Ben

As a result, I'm afraid I still don't have too much to report on Melbourne except to say that it's a wonderful city. I caught a drink with Gabi, whom I climbed Mt "Something or Rather" (loose translation) with back in China, in one of the trendy back alley bars that litter downtown Melbourne. I walked around the botanical gardens which were beautiful and took in the view from the shrine of remembrance dedicated to Australians and Kiwis lost in WWI. I visited the Melbourne Museum and learned about evolution, dinosaurs, the trams and the culture of the aboriginals. I also explored the artsy neighborhoods of Fitzroy and Collingwood where Ben and Kerryn live. These neighborhoods are filled with unique shops, street side cafes, restaurants and bars. Cafes in Melbourne are great as they always have sidewalk seating and have a great mix of various locals having afternoon tea, coffee or an early cold one.

Melbourne Skyline from the Shrine of Rememberance

Melbourne also has an interesting mix of modern architecture and colonial/gothic architecture. the streets are all crisscrossed with a network of trams, one of which is free for tourists and hits all the main attractions downtown and one which is also a restaurant so if your date doesn't have much to say at least you have changing scenery to keep you company.

Buildings of Melbourne

I did have a neat experience at Avalon Airport on my way to Sydney. I was waiting for my flight in the tiny terminal (Avalon is an alternative airport, not the main Melbourne airport) and got to watch an American Navy F18 practise its stunt routine for the airshow next week. It was shooting around the sky doing barrel rolls, flips and various other maneuvers while half my flight was plastered to the glass of the terminal. When it took off, not too far from the building, the engines roared and the glass shook from the shock. It was awesome. While looking on I started chatting with an Aussie guy. Turns out he lives in LA, used to be an MTV host, is Naomi Watts' cousin and is the producer for the Ellen Degeneres show. He started telling me about the Maclerren party for the Australian Grand Prix, the Oscars, his new Bentley and how his friend bought Paris Hilton's old Merecedes, but I found myself distinctly lacking anything to add to the conversation. Oh well.

So my adventures in Australia are coming to a close. I definitely have a new appreciation for the beach, have learned that I'm clearly no surfer and have loved seeing the natural scenery here and the wildly different creatures that inhabit this island continent. The Australian people continue to be friendly, laid back and just generally pleasant. I've enjoyed my time here, but wish I had gotten off the beaten track a bit more and visited western Australia or the outback. the east coast is fun, beautiful and relaxing but after a while you feel like you keep visiting alternate versions of the same place over and over again. All the towns are beautiful beach/surfing towns near a national park and some great walks/hikes. They vary in size, activities and amenities but not really in their general theme. I guess I'll just have to come back to see the rest!

I still haven't gotten back into the swing of picture taking so don't have many new pics to share, but I'll get back in the game for New Zealand.

Sunday Night at the Movies

Live and, Well, Alive in Melbourne

I'm Happy to report that I purchased a new camera during my 12 hour layover in Sydney between buses, and though we're still getting to know each other I think she might be better than the last one.

First Picture

I'm also happy to report that I made it to Melbourne which is a wonderful city with a charm decidedly different from Sydney. Unfortunately, I've been more or less bedridden with a sore throat, headache, cough and stuffy nose so at this point I have little to report. I'm currently under the care of my Friends Ben and Kerryn whom I met in Laos though so after I fully recover I'll have more adventures to share.

Melbourne from the Park

Dingos and Tigers and Crocodiles, oh My!

Arrived in Rainbow Beach and did the normal first day ritual, namely: dropped my bag, changed into my boardies, checked out the town (which took about 30 seconds) and ended up at the beach. "Rainbow Beach" gets its name from the colored sands of the beach and the rising cliffs around. The beach is another example of the seemingly endless gorgeous beaches which line the East coast of the country. I sat on the beach for a while watching parachuters and hang gliders drop in as 4x4s and 4x4 tour buses raced up the beach. That night a free bus took a bunch of us from my hostel for the sunset on the Carlo Sandblow , an impressive expanse of sand which washes overland from the beach.

Rainbow Beach


Carlo Sandblow

That afternoon I also met the lucky 10 others whom I'd share a 4x4 with for the following three days. Our group cohesed immediately and after leaving to use the internet for a bit (to keep you all aware of my adventures) I returned to find all my new companions, drinks in hand, joyfully and enthusiastically enjoying the "transgender" happy hour specials. Not wanting to disappoint the team and be the odd one out, I returned to my room with one of the girls for a change of clothes. I will leave the rest to your imagination, and although my camera was conspicuously absent, I will guarantee any pictures given me of the incident will remain quadruply encrypted deep on my hard drive if not destroyed straight out.

The next morning we packed up our Landcruiser, loading our small bags, food, grog (that's Australian for booze) and tents on top, and after a quick lecture on 4 wheel driving, the next thing we knew we were driving down the beach and loading on a barge which had briefly beached itself long enough for us to load up.

The destination was Fraser Island, the largest sand island in Australia, or the world, or some such impressive superlative. It's 120 km long, is covered in fragile rainforest, inhabited by pure dingos, crisscrossed with sand roads, and has the occasional resort where you can buy ice to keep the beer cold and the food fresh (in that order). For the most part, we stuck to the east coast of the island, a 100 km beach which is a veritable highway of 4x4 traffic during the day, all cruising along on the hard sand packed down during the high tide.

The next three days was spent visiting fresh water lakes and rock pools for swimming (the waves and currents on the beach are both too dangerous for swimming), floating down spring fed streams and hiking across foreboding sand blows. Between stops, we'd chose a driver and all pile in the Landcruiser, 8 of us lined up in two parallel benches in the back and 3 across the front on the bench seat. At night, we set up camp just off the beach behind the dunes and enjoy big feasts and beverages. The first night, we camped near a cool shipwreck which looked stunning in the near full moon with the near endless beach as a backdrop. I decided to sleep out on the beach the first night and upon waking before dawn for the sunrise found my camera half buried in sand. Despite thorough disassembling and reassembling to free up the frozen lens, I'm sad to report that my loyal camera has evidently taken its last picture, and all picture taking has been suspended until further notice.

Shipwreck of the Maheno


Champagne Pools


Look down Fraser Beach and our Trusty Steeds

The loss of my camera being the low point, the clear high point was when I took the wheel to drive the long inland route to McKenzie Lake. I got to scream along the inland sand track, through the rainforest, keeping up my momentum (momentum is your friend) while my companions were jostled around in the back as we tossed over bumps and slid around corners. It was Ace! The lake itself was gorgeous, a huge fresh water lake with bright blue water ringed by bright white sand beaches.

My next stop was the small town of Noosa Heads which is on the beach (surprise) and surrounded by national parks supposedly filled with Koalas. The first day I did a long walk around the head and through the forest but managed to miss any koalas hiding out in the trees (imagine that). To make up for this I had to go the next day to Steve Irwin's Australia Zoo! Krickey!

I must admit, I used to think of Steve Irwin as a total crackpot, but the biography of his life we watched on the courtesy bus to the zoo completely changed my mind. From the early self made movies of him catching crocodiles (yes! he actually was a crocodile hunter!) it became obvious that he actually is a character and doesn't just play one on TV.

The zoo was started by Steve's parents as a safe haven for rescued crocodiles and is now a huge park that resembles Disney World. In the zoo you can see trainers feed a 4m crocodile (danger, danger, danger!), bask with roos, cuddle with wombats, pet koalas and stand amid flying cockatoos. As an indication of the zoo's quality, I reluctantly went to see the tigers, not wanting to go because they're always sleeping and it was far away, but upon arriving I was amazed. There was a huge enclosure with stadium seating for a couple dozen spectators. I stood near the glass which was half submerged in water and watched a trainer actually playing with four full grown tigers as if they were dogs. They'd occasionally get feisty and the trainer would settle them down with a small tap with his cane. At one point the trainer grabbed a huge barrel covered in claw and bite marks and threw it into the water. I watched as this huge beast went into a sprint and then launched himself into the air landing directly in front of me with a huge splash. DC eat your heart out, this was full on! Sadly the zoo contained no platys, so that dream remains allusive... though I have a plan...

After Noosa, I jumped the bus to Byron Bay, a low key tourist town similar to Noosa. I've spent a relaxing time here nursing a sore throat and checking out the town. Yesterday I did the 2 hour hike up to the most eastern most point in Australia. As I hiked up through the coastal rainforest to the lighthouse atop Mt. Warning (named by the infamous Captain Cook) the wind and rain started and I found my self pelted by painful sideways driving rain. Luckily it was warm so the rain was refreshing so it made it a cool way to experience the point. Today I rented a board and hit up the beach, but after getting thrashed around by the waves for 3 hours I decided I'm actually not a good surfer. Oh Well. Tonight I head for a pit stop in Sydney followed by a trip down to Melborne on the south coast. Oh, and I'm going to by a new camera - stay tuned.

Enjoying the Champagne Pools