(AJ Goes to China): This is not Nam, this is... oh wait, this Nam

As wonderful as Vietnam is, it has blossomed into a love/hate relationship. Fresh off the plane, after collecting my luggage, officially entering the country and getting some Dong, I jumped on a little mini bus for the center of Hanoi. The bus went down a double lane highway lined with billboards rising above the mucky waters of active rice patties. Scenes of smiling youngsters talking on their cell phones and drinking beer looked loomed above woman working the muck below in their signature woven cone hats and water buffalo walked the perimeter munching patiently on dry grass and awaiting their turn at the plow. The streets of Hanoi are insane, with the chaotic bustle and energy I had expected more from China. Unlike Beijing, the streets are mostly small winding lanes and are packed with motor scooters and bicycles with only the rare car or bus screaming through, horn blaring. Crossing the street in Hanoi takes a leap of faith as you stare at the solid line of bikes and just start walking slowly across the lane. The first tense few steps are followed by a breathe of relief as the scooters and bikes skillfully part around you like a school of fish around a reef. The streets of the old quarter - where I stayed and the main tourist action is - inhabit most of the city center and are lined with brilliant European style buildings, french cafes and the occasional cathedral. Besides a taste for Cafes, the french also were kind enough to leave a couple drop dead recipes for baguettes to many tourists delight.

The Streets of the Old Quarter in Hanoi

I arrived in the middle of the this hectic scene and had the bus driver drop me near the hostel. The driver decided to rip me off since I didn't have the exact change and after arguing and arguing I decided it wasn't worth the $2 and let it slide, but started off in Hanoi on the wrong foot thanks to one of the worlds worst ambassadors - taxi drivers. This brings us to the bad side of Vietnam - more than any other country I've been in so far, many Vietnamese see tourists as walking money bags. They try to scam you, blatantly overcharge you, argue and guilt you into tips, or pretend to be your best friend until they get your money and then turn their back on you. Riding around the country outside Ninh Binh on my rented bike, I routinely was approached by groups of children who would be smiling and say yell the customary "Hellooo", but then would follow by yelling "money" and then rub there fingers together suggestively. One cute little girl's face dropped suddenly from a smile as if saying "OK enough of the small talk let's get down to business". Luckily I have become a bit immune to this treatment over the last couple months, and have learned it's not worth stressing over a couple dollars or Dong (which clearly means more to them than me) but it starts to grate on you after a while and makes me understand why some seasoned travelers are so Jaded about the people in poor countries.

That said, It's time to move onto the Love side... Vietnam is beautiful. From the rising islands of Halong bay to the lush green and glistening rice patties inland there is a ton to see. As in all places, the friendly, honest people greatly outnumber those mentioned above and are a pure pleasure - especially those who run the family guesthouses and will do anything for you once you befriend them. The food is also wonderful. Apart from the great bread (a blessing at this point in my voyage), the pho (noodle soup) is out of this world, the spring rolls are truly divine and the Cha Ca (fried catfish with a mix of fried dill, scallions, coriander, mint, noodles, and peanuts) is a phenomenal local favorite in Hanoi.

Exploring the Caves of Halong Bay

Feast Abourd the Halong Bay Tour Boat

My time in Vietnam has been split by Hanoi, Cat Ba island in the beautiful Halong Bay and the small town of Ninh Binh with beautiful Karst structures rising above small rivers and rice patties. Based on these exciting travels, I've collected some travel tips on Vietnam for your information and enjoyment:

1. I know the squid sounds great, smells delicious and upon tasting it, defies even the expectations set by either, but in the end it will cost you - trust me.

2. Rent a motorbike, if only for a day. It's a sort of adventure sport here. Then: up your health insurance, life insurance and travel insurance; register with the local embassy and authorities; and make sure you're in good with whatever deity determines your fate. But most importantly have fun.

3. If you get thirsty in Hanoi head to Bia Hoi Junction (the intersection of P Luong Ngoc Quyen and P Ta Hien) in the Old Quarter. Take your pick of any of the establishments gracing the corners and pull out a plastic chair and grab a fresh pint from the keg. It may take you 12 pints of delicious (OK drinkable) Bia Hoi (draft beer) to get you buzzed, but at 12 Cents a Pint who's counting? Do like the locals and start at 10 in the morning.

4. Go say hi to Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi. The 4 different security lines, confiscation of bags and cameras and the short propaganda film in Vietnamese may seem like too much of a hastle, but where else can you see a rotting corpse for free? Certainly not in the US. Funny thing is that he wanted to be cremated, but the adoring party leaders wouldn't have it.

In Ho Chi We Trust (The Real Ho Chi was not available for a Photograph)

5. Be like a local and eat Pho for breakfast lunch and dinner. When you get sick of Beef, just switch to Chicken or intestines. No worries mate.

6. Having your own bike or motorcycle will not keep the touts from offering you a ride. Don't bother trying to explain why - logic doesn't seem to work on them.

7. See Ha Long bay by boat. It's truly spectacular. A sort of Yangshuo in the sea. Take a swim in the green water (even if it's cold and cloudy) and try not to laugh when the Captain puts up the worthless sails so you can take pictures of you "sailing" the bay.

8. Spend more than 8 days here. There's so much to see and do!